KLR600 Sprocket Elbow In

I've replaced the final drive sprockets and chain on the 1985 KLR600. Here are the parts:

• JT JTF 516.15 Fifteen Tooth (Stock) Countershaft Sprocket
• OE PN 13270-1060 Sprocket Plate
• JT JTR 477.43 Forty-three Tooth Drive Sprocket
• Primary Drive PDO 520-104 Steel Chain

JT is a well known name and I usually use their sprockets. The front and rear sprockets were sold as a set on JT's eBay page for $39.55 w/free shipping. Primary Drive is RMATV's brand. This chain was a steel, O-ring type chains with a master link and cost $42.25. I used this chain on my KLR650 and found it to be sufficient. The Sprocket Plate was necessary because I found a crack in the plate on the bike. It was purchased through RMATV's OEM Parts site for $4.88.

The sprocket plate was cracked because the countershaft sprocket was installed backwards. Normally sprockets whether front or rear are installed with the teeth number faced outward. However, when a countershaft sprocket is secured by a plate (rather than a nut) the sprocket elbow is required to face inward. In the case of the JT, the number of teeth is on the same side as the elbow. The problem that whoever installed it backwards caused is that the sprocket plate was forced to bend over the elbow that caused the crack.

The countershaft sprocket fits very tightly on the shaft. I had to apply some grease on the shaft and lightly tap the sprocket with a mallet. (Note to self....if the countershaft sprocket is the least bit loose, it needs to be replaced.) The sprocket plate slides onto the shaft and then turns in a groove at with point the two M6 8x6 bolts can be installed. I used a little thread lock in that installation.

Interestingly, the rear sprocket on the motorcycle had the number of teeth turned inward...i.e. also backwards. Perhaps that was done to align with the backwards countershaft sprocket...dunno. Either way, the Kawasaki Service Manual clearly states that the elbow on the countershaft sprocket faces inward and the number on the final drive sprocket face outward. 'nough said on that. Below is the right way. I did not replace the studs or nuts, as they seemed in good condition, but I did use some thread locker while installing the nuts.

Chain Tensioning

What I really found impressive about the final drive work was how Kawasaki designed the rear axle to support chain tensioning.

Normally, chain tensioning is accomplished with chain pullers that consist of a bolt against a plate on each side of the swingarm that pushes the axle against the swingarm to tighten or loosen the chain. You have to adjust one side at a time with a typical chain puller.

The chain tensioners on the KLR600 are actually cylinders embedded in the actual swingarm through with the axle extends. Also see photo above. Each tensioner cylinder has a single mark that is aligned with a mark on the swingarm prior to torquing down the axle. 

Once the axle is torqued (69 foot pounds), the rear pinch bolts can be released allowing the axle/tensioner cylinder assembly to spin in the swingarm using a 24mm socket on the axle nut. From the left side (chain side) as the cylinders turn counter-clockwise the chain tightens and as the cylinders turn clockwise the chain loosens. It turns easy; I just have my breaker bar on it because it's easier to reach from the other side where I was measuring the chain slack. I could also use channel locks on the other side of the axle to accomplish the same thing. 

The beauty in this design is there's no way to throw off the wheel alignment when adjusting chain tension and slack.

In completing this part of the project, I made a couple modifications.

• First, I've removed the passenger footpegs. 
• Second, I've left the chain cover off although I reinstalled the lower chain guide.
• Third, by leaving off the chain cover, I need to fabricate a protective plate for the front of the swingarm to keep crud off the rear shock absorber.

Next job...fork seals!

KLR600 Fork Seals "Short-Cut"

Shortly after I purchased the 1985 Kawasaki KLR600B1 in April, I did an extensive maintenance on it that included refreshing the fork oil. The oil was pretty nasty, but at that time the seals were holding. In short though, the seals started to show leakage, most likely due to the higher (proper) level of fluid in the fork.

So on to the "normally dreaded" fork seal replacement....

If at all possible, I try to stick with OEM parts for maintenance. Sometimes the price tags are just too high compared to aftermarket options, but in the case of seals I was able to get a set from RMATV for $22. I did not get the wipers, only the seals.

Similar to my recent swingarm guard experience, I happened to be working in the general area so the amount disassembly wasn't too bad. Specifically, I will be replacing the front brake disc and doing some work on the caliper. So the wheel is off and the forks are easily accessible with four allen bolts per side.

The Short-Cut-Approach

In advance, I had reviewed online videos of early model KLR fork seal changes and found an interesting, new-to-me approach that I intended to apply.

Essentially, the "Short-Cut-Approach," as it's called, is to simply use air pressure in the fully assembled fork tube/bucket to blow the seals out. Early model KLRs like my 1985 have Schrader air pressure valves to support this approach. I've been changing fork seals for decades and the short cut saves a lot of time and effort in this maintenance procedure for forks with valves.

So here's how it went...not so good at first:

The first thing I had to do was drain all that good oil that I'd filled the forks with a couple weeks ago. It was reusable, but I needed to buy some more because I lost quite a little in the leakage. Other than remove the fork and drain the oil, I did nothing to the fork except wrap a rag around the fork to "catch" the seals that blow off.

In hindsight the wrap wasn't necessary, but that's what all the guys in the videos did so I followed suit.

I pumped up my portable air tank with 100 PSI for the initial "unsuccessful" attempts at applying the short -cut-approach. I was quite disappointed as guys on the YouTube vids were popping the seals out with around 40 PSI. My seals weren't budging for me even at 100. Maybe like the oil, they hadn't been changed in 35 years either.

After several unsuccessful attempts, I rev'ed up my 175 PSI air compressor and put some heat on the bucket around the seal. With those additional steps, the seals popped out with a bang equivalent to a 22 long rifle. Wow!

Dang! I've been changing fork seals literally for decades and this was by far the best experience I've ever had.

So, to continue with the job...

For purpose of installing the new seals, I found a piece of solid pvc pipe in my scrap pile that fit over the tube and inside the top of the bucket. I cut it down to extend past the top of the fork tube eight or so inches and used it to press the seal into place.

A good lube is in order for installing fork seals but it must be a dry lube. You don't want slippery oils and greases to linger in and around the seals. There are all kinds of options out there. WD40, which most of us have readily on hand, is a solvent rather than an oil, but evaporates fairly quickly and acts as a good lubricant for this purpose. However, I use this stuff because it's a non petroleum based lubricant that won't cause rubber deterioration like the WD40 does (although over such a long time, the seal will wear out before the WD40 does any harm to it).

Fork Oil....

Spec fork oil vicosity for the KLR per the service manual is SAE10. Personally, I've always felt that I get better suspension performance in forks using SAE20. However, back during the first fork maintenance the closest I could find was SAE15 at Sky Powersports. Close enough.

Fork oil specs usually come in three forms. The first is the viscosity, as discussed above. The second is the quantity and the third is the measurement from the top of the fork. Once the weight is selected, the third spec is more important than the second spec.

In the case of the KLR600B1, the quantity was 362 milliliters. The measurement from the top of the tube is 192 millimeters.

Note that the KLR600B1 specs changed from the KLR600A1 (1984) specs. The B1 specs for all post 1984 models can be found in the Service Manual Supplement.

For purposes of the measurement, the springs and other guts of the fork tube must be removed, the tube must be fully depressed and measured at the angle of the triple tree. For this purpose you may as well just put the tube in the tree, but make sure it's depressed.

In my case here, both forks required slightly more than the 362 milliliters to achieve the proper level in the forks (190 millimeters), but again, the measurement is the more important of the two specs....quantity and measurement.

So, that's was it. Done. What a pleasant maintenance experience changing the fork seals was on the KLR!


Up next....

More Brakes! Research has indicated to me that the brakes on the KLR600 suck...and always have. Well, they sure sucked when I bought the bike. So far I was twice in the rear drum getting that mess successfully straightened out.

Now I need to work on the front brake. I already added new brake pads, but didn't get the results that I wanted. So I purchased a new rotor and have some tinkering planned on the caliper to help get a tighter grab on the rotor.

Dang, I actually may have the old pig ready for The Hooch in two weeks. 😊

KLR600 Swing Arm Guard

I'm not sure what condition the Swing Arm Chain Guard (PN 55020-1154) was in when I bought the KLR600, but I know when whatever was left of it exploded while on a short ride testing my brake work. That's an important part that protects the swingarm from chain slap damage. It needs to be replaced.

I first checked around for some aftermarket solutions and DIY ideas. I found no aftermarket options and, while the authors of DIY solutions touted their successes, there weren't any I really felt comfortable with.

Fortunately, OEM Parts Dealers like Rocky Mountain ATV still carry (or will order) the part. I got it from RMATV a brief two week backorder period. It was kind of pricey at $71.23 and...yes...it's green. 😐

Installation of the new guard required "partial" removal of the swingarm that, in turn, requires a lot of disassembly. Fortunately, I'm in the process of replacing the entire final drive (sprockets and chain) so removing the rear wheel, Chain Guide (PN 12053-1104) and Chain Cover (PN 3002-5179-6F) was already completed when the Swingarm Guard arrived.

As shown in the photo below:

• Remove the countershaft sprocket
• Remove the upper swingarm bolt, then shaft
• Remove or loosen the lower swingarm shaft bolt, but leave the shaft in place (the swingarm is going to pivot backwards and down on this shaft)
• Not shown in the photo, remove the side stand spring, which interferes with installation

As shown in the next photo, the swing arm will pivot on the lower shaft away from the upper shaft mounting points allowing for the Swingarm Guard to be installed.

I found that the easiest way to install the Guard was from the rear. I slid it over the top of the swingarm up into the cavity above where the countershaft sprocket was. Then it can be dropped down and pulled back onto the swingarm. There is only one 8mm bolt holding the Guard in place.

At this point, all I was left with was pivoting the swingarm up/forward until the shaft holes aligned with the upper mounts, inserting the shaft, torquing the bolt to the proper 72 foot pounds. The sidestand spring was also reinstalled.

That was pretty much it, really. It would have been a lot more work in disassembly and reassembly had I not been involved in some other maintenance in the general area...but nothing hard.

Interestingly, Kawasaki modified the Swing Arm Guard in later years to allow a replacement to be slipped on without removing the swingarm. Below is the parts diagram to my former 2016 KLR650. You can see the difference by comparing it to the parts diagram for the KLR600, above.

Onward...

I'm getting closer to having the KLR600 ready for some serious action. Here's the list of odds and ends on the bigger end of the spectrum of issues:

• Replacing the final drive train (sprockets and chains) after identifying some damage on the countershaft stay plate. Fresh drive train components are in order.
• Replacing the fork seals. Yes, after changing out the fork oil and setting it at the proper levels, the fork seals started to leak. Dang!
• I need to get serious with the brakes. They are just not working the way they should...after replacing pads, shoes, fluid and bleeding (front). I can't get a hard stop out of either end of the bike. We'll see.

The Hooch 2019

Next stop...The Hooch!

Short for The Chatahooochee Forest in North Georgia, The Hooch is an annual adventure and dual sport ride hosted by the Georgia Recreational Trail Riders Association. It's really one of the Top 10 adventure rides in the southeast.

I missed The Hooch last year and am looking to return in 2019.

I was hoping to be able to take the old-new KLR600 this year but it's just not quite there yet. Maybe next year.

Check out my 2017 Hooch Rally post for photos and comments on the 2017 event.

Home base for The Hooch is Two Wheels at Suches, in Suches Georgia. Check out my Two Wheels at Suches Facility Rating and Review.

The Hooch

Next stop...The Hooch!

Short for The Chatahooochee Forest in North Georgia, The Hooch is an annual adventure and dual sport ride hosted by the Georgia Recreational Trail Riders Association. It's really one of the Top 10 adventure rides in the southeast.

I missed The Hooch last year and am looking to return in 2019.

I was hoping to be able to take the old-new KLR600 this year but it's just not quite there yet. Maybe next year.

Check out my 2017 Hooch Rally post for photos and comments on the 2017 event.

Home base for The Hooch is Two Wheels at Suches, in Suches Georgia. Check out my Two Wheels at Suches Facility Rating and Review.

KLR600 Handlebar

One of the popular replacement bars for the KLR650 was the ProTaper SE ATV High Bend (around $70). That particular bar is higher than the stock bar, but maintained roughly the same width and pull. It was a good standing bar for virtually all riders.

While, normally, I would have replaced the KLR600 bar with the ProTaper, I decided to save a few bucks and go with an alternative. The alternative is the Tusk T-10 Aluminum Handlebar in the ATV Sport Bend (around $30). The savings were put toward a set of aluminum Tusk Hand Guard Frames ($30) and a fresh set of Tusk Waffle Grips ($5).

Specs on the T-10 in ATV Sport Bend (stock in brackets) are 31.75" wide (stock 31.90") , 6.25" high (stock 3.0"), with A 3.50" pull (stock 3.90"). The T-10 comes in other bends, details of which are provided on the RMATV website.

The T-10 provides a perfect height for my needs. I got it in blue to sort of match the seat. Not that I'm trying to make a fashion statement or anything. 😎

eBay Mirrors

It's only a matter of time before something happens on my dual sport bikes and I'm looking for a new set of mirrors. Well, here we are with the KLX250 and a broken mirror. Breaks are usually from falling or slapping a tree with a mirror out on the trail. In this case though, the bike tipped in my covered utility trailer while hauling it to Alabama for the Perry Mountain Run.

Even though I ride mostly off road, my KLX250 is a "dual" sport so I still need mirrors. The bad news is its an unexpected cost. The good news is that it's a good time to get a set of folding dual-sport mirrors.

My last set of folding mirrors was the DRC 161 Off-Road Mirrors (PN 058-16-110) for my DR650 that ran about $25 each. However, for this go-round I'm trying a set of cheap eBay Mirrors....$14.40 for both sides, plus free ship!

The brand was listed as MATCC. They were, of course, manufactured in china. The pivot requires a 4mm hex key. They had a 10mm post (came with 8mm adapters that were not necessary for the KLX). While the mirrors were sold in a pair, they can be configured either right-side or left-side.

Here's how they stack up to the stock mirrors:

Here's a photo of a DRC mirror from my DR650 mirror replacement.

The only mod was to replace the pivot nut/bolt with a longer bolt (1/4dia) and a wingnut. Like the DRCs, these mirrors require a 4mm hex key to loosen the pivot and fold the mirrors. I essentially added a more convenient wing nut to loosen/tighten the pivot.

I used a thread locker and the mirrors have a 14mm locking nut for mounting. In addition to the pivot adjustment (previously discussed) they have another 14mm adjustment nut above the to adjust the rotation and further lock the mirror down.

As I no longer have the DR650 I'm working from memory, but I believe these new, cheaper mirrors are consistent with the more popular branded DRC 161 mirrors as follows:

• Both fit well, provided stiff and secure aluminum shafts, and (excluding the pivot) torqued securely. 
• Both are designed to be installed on either side.
• Both mirrors are legit, crisp, clear mirrors.
• Both seemed to be weak in the central pivot assembly, which I attribute to a fairly soft plastic; i.e. you can only torque a bolt/nut in that stuff so much before damaging it so caution is advised in the ongoing pivot/folding use. 
• Both showed some vibration in the mirror surface, but not enough to make them unusable. 

Be advised that imo these eBay mirrors are not of the quality of the Kawasaki stock mirrors...but neither were the brand name DRCs relative to the Suzuki stock mirrors. However, bottom line is that what I got in the DRCs (on the DR650) and what I got in this new set of eBay mirrors reasonably support my needs and at a very reasonable price.


p.s.

There are many eBay vendors selling this same product. I now see that some are cheaper than what I paid. The set that I purchased was sourced in New Jersey by a vendor named bgmotor2010. The region of manufacture is China. Shipping was free and the product was received in under one week.

Supertrapp E.A.R. Series

The 1985 Kawasaki KLR600 is equipped with an aftermarket exhaust, specifically the Supertrapp E.A.R. (Environmental Acoustic Reduction) System. This model provided for a mid-pipe and muffler (i.e. silencer).

Unfortunately, I found this exhaust to be too loud. I've never cared for loud mufflers for the sake of loud mufflers and, more and more, loud pipes are falling out of favor even in the motorcycle community. Of course I fully understand that there may be some performance benefits when mufflers and fueling systems are carefully (and professionally) configured. Personally, I'm not riding in situations where performance enhancements are necessary. In fact, putting my money in good suspension components is way-way-way more valuable to me than mufflers and other exhaust components.

Having said that though, I don't know the Supertrapp set up and, for all I know, it might be adjustable and tuned. What I found in my research is that this model Supertrapp can, in fact, be dialed in for a lower decibel level. Essentially, the exhaust is ejected through a series of disks in the back of the muffler, which is why you don't see a hole in the end the muffler in the photo right above.

The first thing was getting the core out.

Core Removal:

Following the Supertrapp E.A.R. instructions, I found it strange that the core is secured in the can with a screw or some other method. There's really nothing holding it in there...which may be why it was so dang hard to get out.

The instructions said to use a 15" wooden dowel and pound the core out from the rear. I started with a rubber mallet and was quickly swinging my small sledge. I had to hit it so many time I totally lost count. I also used penetrating oil. I was worried that there was something holding it in there, but there wasn't and eventually it started to creep out.

While I should be surprised that there was hardly any parking in the can, it's actually not that unusual. The packing breaks down into fibers that work their way out. Actually, if they didn't come apart and work their way out, we wouldn't need to repack these things!

Anyway, I got the core out and cleaned it up with some a a sanding block and some steel wool.

Selecting No. of Disks:

According to the Supertrapp E.A.R. instructions, fewer discs reduce sound level and increase back pressure; more discs increase sound levels and reduce back pressure. More back pressure means better low end torque and worse top end performance. Less back pressure means worse low end torque and better high end performance.

The instructions applicable to the KLR600 provide that 5-6 disks is optimal for the stock engines and stock jetting and 8-10 disks is the "practical" maximum for modified models.

The muffler in my KLR600 had 8 disks...or maybe 9. I clearly had 8 disks, but there was another disk that the instructions refer to as the Reverse Flow Baffle. The difference is the Baffle has a cover and it's unclear whether that should be included in the number of disks in operation. I intend to follow up with the manufacturer on this point....

...but for now it appears that I can at least remove 3 disks that, as the instructions indicate, might lower the decibels.

Repacking:

Before I removed the Supertrapp assembly, I also purchased some 4-stroke muffler packing to repack  the muffler. Muffler repacking is another maintenance item that should decrease decibel levels and I've heard it said that fresh packing improves performance.

Generally, repacking is a simple process of wrapping the core in a fiberglass, steel wool or ceramic sound deadening material. The Supertrapp E.A.R. core is 11 1/2 inches long and has an outer diameter of 1 3/4 inches. The core subject to wrap is 9 3/4 inches. The can, although tapered, has a inner diameter of 3 3/4 inches at the back.

I purchased a package of 4-Stroke Ceramic Packing that came in a mat of 12" x 24" x 1" for $18 on Amazon. Wrapping the Supertrapp E.A.R. core required 9 3/4" x 18" of the 1" thick mat. In this case I was able to make two full wraps on the core.

Here's a photo of the wrapped core. Once wrapped the material is held in place with masking tape that, of course, burns away quickly.

The wrapped core must be very carefully slid into the can keeping the wrap in place.

Results:

As usual, I get only half of what I ever want and that's the case here, as well. While there was a reduction in the sound level, it was only about half of what I really wanted. As it is, it's close to that line where I keep or replace it.

Rather than jump to premature conclusions, the plan is to put some miles on and see if changes in the decibel levels arise as the packing material heats up and moves around into possible weak spots.

Stay tuned....

Spooning Tires, my way...

...and I never pinch the tube!

Today I replaced a very old and rotting 130/80-17 Avon Gripster (rear tire) on my 1985 Kawasaki KLR600 with a fresh 50/50 Kenda K784 Big Block Knobby of the same size. What follows is a step-by-step chronicle of how I went about spooning the new tire while avoiding a frustrating and expensive tube pinch.

My Tools for the Job:

While I always spoon my own tires, I've never invested in a tire changer, stand or any real expensive equipment. Rather, I do it on my garage floor just like if I have to do it out on a trail. Below is the equipment that I use.

When at home I have the luxury of my higher leveraged 14 1/2 Spoons and tire iron. On the trails I carry the shorter/lighter 9 1/2 inch levers. I also have a couple Motion Pro T-6 Combo Lever/Wrenches that are nice for the trail bag.

Brake Disc Protection:

As can be seen above, this particular wheel has a drum brake. When I work on a wheel with a disc brake such as on the front of the KLR600, I avoid risk of damaging or bending the disc by simply removing it. 

Rim Protection:

In many cases I use one my two sets of rim protectors to avoid marring and scratching. The larger of the two sets are the MotionPro RimSheild 2, and are a big improvement over the older type with the string. Unfortunately, it's too late to save this particular rim from scratches, so I'll be skipping that step. 😊 However, these simple protectors are a must for new or colored rims.

Tube/Carcass Removal:

Naturally, I removed the tube valve to deflate the tire and pressed the bead off the rim. I am normally able to get most dual sport tires off the bead by pressing them with my hands or standing on them. In this and other cases though, I needed help breaking the bead and that's where the 6" clamp comes into play. It's just a simple C-clamp, the same thing I use to depress caliper pistons when I change the brake pads on my cars. The bead was pressed off the rim in one spot and then pressed by hand around the perimeter.

Once the bead is broken, the old carcass was easily removed using the spoons.

Rim Cleaning and Deburring

A step I think a lot of folks miss is cleaning and deburring the rim. This step is the first important measure to protect the tube. In addition, rim contamination can be the cause when a bead doesn't set.

This is really a great case. As you can see the KLR600 wheel really shows its age. The old tire left a lot of rubber on the rim and internal moisture had caused corrosion that needed to be cleaned out. In fact the corrosion was so bad that it caused the metal valve stem, as shown in the previous photo, to literally seize up in the rim hole! 

Out came the rim strip and I removed the rubber deposits and corrosion with my wire wheel. I then cleaned the inner rim with alcohol. Alcohol is used because it is both a solvent (removes oil deposits) and quickly dries without leaving any moisture. Moisture in a rim is what gives rise to corrosion. I applied the alcohol on a soft pad so as to identify any burrs and rough spots that may cause problems for my tube.

Once cleaned up, I installed a fresh IRC Rim Strip. A rim strip is a $1.75 part and a good measure for all new tire installations imo. It looks rough, but it's now quite smooth/clean and worthy of a fresh tube.

New Tire Considerations:

Before spooning the new tire on, there are a couple things that need to be considered:

1. Rotational Indicator: Many tires require installation based on a directional indicator. The sidewall of new tires must be carefully examined for a directional indicator.
2. Balancing Mark: Many tires have a balancing dot; a small white or yellow circular dot on the sidewall that should be aligned with the valve stem.

These two configurations are necessary for the tire to operate and wear properly. My new Kenda K784 had both a rotational indicator and a balancing mark.

Tube Prep and Spooning New Tire:

Some tires are soft (hard to spoon) and some tires are stiff (really hard to spoon).

Whether I'm dealing with either soft or stiff, I try and soften them up a little by either leaving them in the direct sunlight for an hour or so or running a hairdryer inside the tire. It definitely helps!

A tool that I've found very useful for installing the new tire is the Motion Pro Bead Buddy. Essentially, this simple device holds the bead in place at one point on the rim so I can start spooning without the common problem of having the bead slip off behind as I work around the rim. In this particular photo, the first bead is being spooned on. 

As you'll note in the photo above, I have spread talcum powder inside the tire. In the photo below, I've also covered the tube itself in talcum powder. Talcum powder is another anti-moisture measure that creates a slippery interface between the tire, tube, rim and rim strip that allows the tube to move during the installation and spooning process...thus facilitating the placement of the tube in the tire and providing a first line of defense against pinch damage.

My next important steps in avoiding a tube pinch hole involve my method for inserting the tube in the tire in a way that reduces the chances of a pinch by keeping the tube away from the bead being spooned.

As can be seen in both the previous and following photo, the tube is not flat; rather, it has a bowl shape. Following the first bead being spooned on the rim, I insert the tube as shown below...bowl right-side up, so to speak.

I accomplish this configuration by folding the tube as in the next photo below, starting with the section containing the valve stem. By folding the tube in this manner, it will open up inside the tire in an L-shape with no part of the tube close enough to the upper rim edge to get pinched by a spoon or caught on the bead.

For purposes of setting the valve stem in the rim hole, I find that laying the rim/tire flat on my floor pad with the valve stem hole away from me makes aligning the valve stem with the rim hole much easier. 

Throughout the remainder of the spooning I continuously checked that the tube was staying where I needed it to stay.

Onward...

Okay now, one more look at my MotionPro Bead Buddy locking the tire bead in place at one point (near the valve stem) as I spoon the tire on using my three spoons, and then my tire iron for the last three-six inches of bead. I usually only need the tire iron for real stiff carcasses. 

This is the first point (right before spooning the top bead) that I use a bead lubricant. I use glass cleaner (like Windex) because it is a non-greasy solvent that dries quickly like alcohol. In real bad situations, I'll use WD40, but nothing else...and certainly not soap or water. Glass cleaner is the right stuff for my needs for most situations.

Once spooned on, I hyper inflated the tire to about 40 psi that forced the bead onto the rim...

...and no pinches or leaks! Viola! 😊

Next stop, install fresh brake shoes, re-gear back to OE spec and then I can reinstall the wheel and see how I like my new Kenda K784.

BONUS TIP!

Working alone in my garage I tend to think up simple approaches to help in some difficult situations. Installing wheels in the swingarm may seem like an easy task, but it's usually complicated by having to align parts on both sides and locking the brake stay into place all while holding a heavy wheel off the ground.

In a measure to keep it simple, I eliminate the "holding the wheel up" part using a small block of wood (2 x 4 in this case).

When removing the wheel I make sure it's only about an inch off the floor. When reinstalling the wheel I slide it into place on top of the block, get my alignments done and slowly roll the wheel forward off the block. When the axle hole lines up...slide it in. Done!

Viola again! 😊