April has been quite a month. Earlier this month, I hauled the KLX250 to Hohlenwald, Tennessee and return for the Spring Discovery Rally of Tennessee Dual Sport. That was a seven day effort with four days, 1,500 miles, of travel and three days of riding. Two weeks later, I was back on the road again heading to Stanton, Alabama for the Perry Mountain Tower. That was a four day effort with two days, 1,050 miles, of travel and two days of riding. I'm turning 60 this coming weekend and, quite frankly, after all that, I'm feeling it.
The Perry Mountain Motorcycle Club provided free primitive camping, but they had a real nice bathhouse there and it even included a shower stall. Overall, it was a decent place.
As with most rallies, the Tower Run started with a riders meeting. There were a total number of 150 riders between the dual sport routes and the adventure routes. My impression was the riders were skewed to the dual sport.
Below is a video of our first 15 minutes on the dual sport track. I found it very difficult and actually did the entire adventure route during the afternoon. That gave me a chance to sort of collect myself to go back and finish the dual sport track on Sunday.
Personally, I'd like some more time out there on those tracks. It was clear that the regulars and members really knew where to cut the corners and make their way around, while I was trying to fit my bars between trees. Unfortunately in a rally scenario they cut you loose up to a certain time and then you need to be well out in front of the sweep crew or else you get swept off the track. I look forward to doing a better job out there on the Tower Run next year.
While my 2019 KLX250 was purchased off my dealer's showroom floor, from time to time I find myself considering an interesting used motorcycle. While there was a time that I purchased vintage (pre 1975) dirt bikes for restoration, in today's state t's not usually the case that I'm looking for used motorcycles to buy. Rather, something that really attracts me might pop up on the Interweb someplace. In fact, this just happened about a month ago when I came across a used Kawasaki KLR600 dual sport on Craigslist. Two weeks later I made an appointment to look at the motorcycle and ended up taking it home.
Prior to visiting the seller, I did a considerable amount of research on the motorcycle and what I should be doing and looking for in that very short window of time that I have to look at the motorcycle and make my decision to buy it or not. Yes, while I've purchased many used motorcycles, it's still a good idea to have an organized plan and process. Even highly experienced pilots in that aviation world do a checklist ever single time they take off, so why should I assume I'll remember everything?
Interestingly though, searches pointed me to many, very general articles and checklists on what to look for in a used motorcycle. I was somewhat underwhelmed. Underwhelmed to the point that I actually took a step back and made my own checklist for the KLR600.
The purpose of this post is to share that checklist and provide information behind some of the procedures and considerations that I thought were appropriate to support my decision to buy or not buy. Click for an Electronic Version of the Checklist.
USED MOTORCYCLE CHECKLIST
GENERAL Carefully Review the Title for Liens and other Impairments; in the case of the KLR600, it was tagged and titled in Illinois (Note 1) Compare the Actual VIN on the Motorcycle to the Title (Note 1) Review the Service History with the Owner Ask the Owner about any Significant Issues or Problems, including any Warranty Services Ask about or obtain Owner’s and Service Manuals (Note 2) Ask what Specific Modifications have been Made Ask about the availability Stock Parts (left over from mods), Spare Parts and Unused Service Parts and whether they are included in the Sale
MODEL SPECIFIC
Research the model by reference to online reviews and specific model ownership Groups and Forums; great sources to ask what to look for
Obtain photos of the subject motorcycle from several angles prior to inspection and review them against manufacturer and other online photos for missing items and/or modifications
Develop Pricing Information for the Motorcycle Model from Online and other Resources
Obtain Insurance Quotes to Include in the Buy Decision
Consider obtaining a VIN Report (e.g. CycleVIN) WALK-AROUND, VISUAL INSPECTION
Bring a Flashlight to light up hard to see areas of the motorcycle and inside the fuel tank
Inspect Panels/Fairing/Shroud/Seat Condition and Security of their Mounting on the Motorcycle
Inspect under the tank, seat, around the head pipe and around the carburetor
Look for Indications of Leaks (oil, coolant and gas)
Check oil level and oil coloration looking for dark oil, gray oil or milky oil (milky results from moisture in the crank case) (Note 3)
Look at the Bottom of the Engine for Accumulations of Oil; Note the Condition of the Case near the Drain Plug (Note 4)
Look for leaks around the fork seals and the rear shock(s)
Inspect Inner Tank Condition; look for rust and floating particulate matter (flashlight needed)
Note if the Rear Fender Centers over the Rear Tire; not Lined may be an indication of a bent frame or sub-frame SITTING INSPECTION
Specifically Consider Handle Bar Alignment (Note 5)
Steering Head Turns Freely; Cables Unobstructed
Lever Operation (don’t turn throttle) (Note 6)
Rock Front Suspension with Front Brake Pulled
Bounce Rear Suspension
Initial Bearing Test by Roll Back and Forth while listening for Noise or Interference with Wheel Turn
Initial Brake Test (front and rear)
ELECTRICAL
Inquire as to the Age of the Battery
Obtain an Understanding of the Meter Gauges and Readings and Evaluate their Operation (also see test ride)
Test the Operation of the Headlight (hi-lo beams), Running Light, Brake Light and Signal Lights
Test the Operation of the Kill Switch
Inquire about the Wiring of Accessory Components (e.g. drive lights) and Accessory Ports (Note 7)
BRAKES
Disk Brake Pad Thickness is normally observable; Drum Brake Pads should be checked through their operation
Condition of Brake Cables and Hydraulic Hoses
Reservoir Condition, Level and Fluid Color (Note 8)
Test Brake Light (Lever and Pedal)
COOLING
Condition of Radiator, Radiator Fins, Hoses and Clamps
Observe the Fan Operation at a High Running Temp
Check the operation of the Temp Gauge
Look for Leaks during Operation
EXHAUST
Ask if the motorcycle has an aftermarket exhaust, ask what other modifications (e.g. jetting changes) accompanied the modification
Consider overall Condition of Exhaust Components and Security of Mount
General Sound Level during Operation
Smoke during Operation
If it has an aftermarket exhaust, ask if the stock exhaust is available and included
TIRES/WHEELS/HUBS
Ascertain if the Tires are Tube-type or Tubeless
General Tire Condition (Wear, Cracks, Plugs in Tubeless)
Specifically Ask about the existence of Tire Leaks
Scan Rim Condition (bends, dings and rust)
Scan Hub Condition (cracks)
Check Condition of Security of Spokes
CHAIN/SPROCKETS
Ask if the Sprockets are OE Sizes
The Chain should be Clean and Oiled
Look for Kinks in Chain (two links at an angle to one-another) (Note 9)
Check for Sprocket Wear (Shark Tailing) (Note 10)
STARTUP AND TEST RIDE
Start a Cold Engine to Identify Cold Start Issues
Listen for Smooth Idle Running
Test Brakes Before Moving
Test Throttle Turn Operation before Moving to Assure that the Throttle Returns to Idle
Test Clutch Operation (Note 11)
Shift all Gears; Consider Smoothness of Shifting
Listen for Chain and Sprocket Noises
Listen for Bearing Noise (Note 12)
Note Speedometer, Odometer and Tachometer Operation
Upon Return Check for Leaks
Check Oil Coloration, again
DEALER EVALUATION
While becoming more and more rare, a local dealer may be willing to take a look at the motorcycle and/or provide insight on some of the items that should be taken under consideration.
___________________________________________
NOTES: Note 1: Out of State Titles: In the State
of Florida, the VIN on an out-of-state title must be verified on a formal
Affidavit by a Notary or LEO before the DMV will process the application. It is
always a good idea to call the Tax Collector’s Office in advance and review the
registration and titling process.
Note 2: Owner’s Manuals: Most manufacturers offer
free electronic copies of owner manuals. Reviewing an owner’s manual prior to
operation of the subject motorcycle may help identify operational
characteristics that need to be reviewed and considered.
Note 3: Oil Color: Most people know that dark oil is
an indication of old oil and gray oil is an indication of ineffective oil. Most
people don’t know what gives rise to a milky oil coloration. It’s water or
coolant. Water can invade the oil from condensation. Coolant can invade the oil
from the cylinder head or, in some instances, the water pump. Below are
personal photos of the oil coloration between normal used oil and oil from my
KLR650 that became contaminated with coolant due to a water pump failure. It
should be noted that oil floats on water; therefore the color indication of
water/coolant in the oil is only available when they get mixed together through
running of the engine.
Note 4: Drain Plugs: Motorcycles often have cast
aluminum crank cases. Damage to the cases is caused when steel wet sump oil drainage
plugs are over-torqued causing serious damage to the case such as that shown in
the photo below. It would be advisable to have a dealer look at the case if
indications of repair are observed.
Note 5: Handle Bar Alignment: The photo below
illustrates an “exaggerated” out-of-alignment handlebar; the problem can be
much more subtle but still very noticeable and an indication of a bigger
problem requiring expensive repairs (e.g. bent fork tube). Yoke=Triple Tree.
Note 6: Throttle Operation: The operation of the
throttle on some four-stroke motorcycles result in spraying fuel into the
carburetor even if the motorcycle is not running, which in turn, could lead to
flooding. The throttle turn test should be done only when the motorcycle is
running.
Note 7: Accessories: There are many different ways to
wire accessories and ports for accessories (e.g. cig type or USB port). Some
accessories come with a dedicated harness (e.g. spot lighting). The main
question is whether the accessories and ports are switched or unswitched.
Essentially, “switched” means that they only operate when the key is on. “Unswitched”
means that the accessory or port is connected directly to the battery and the
accessory/port will work (and drain the battery) at all times. This is
necessary information to avoid unexpectedly draining the battery.
Note 8: Brake Fluid: Spec hydraulic brake fluid
replacement intervals are usually around two years, which equates to the
effective life of the fluid. Hydraulic fluid starts with a clean, clear
appearance and darkens over time. The older it gets, the darker it gets. If it
looks like the right example in the photo below, it’s well past spec. If you
see a very dark color, you’re looking at a required flush of the hydraulic
system and a disassembly of the brake caliper to inspect, and potentially
replace, the rubber bits. However, as to the rubber bits (seals and o-rings),
those typically already have a manufacturer replacement spec of around five
years.
Note 9: Kinky Chain: The photo below illustrates a
kinked chain that requires replacement. No, it’s not repairable/recover with lubricants. Chains are maintenance items that have components that wear
over time no matter how well they are maintained. You will hear that kinked chain as it rolls around the sprockets before you see it.
Note 10: Sprockets: Similar to chains, sprockets are
also maintenance items that wear over time. It should be noted that a bad
chain will increase the wear on the sprockets reducing their lives. The photos below show examples
of worn countershaft and final drive sprockets.
This first stock photo is a really bad countershaft sprocket showing heavy wear and shark-toothing. That one is way past its replacement.
This second photo is a worn drive sprocket with a comparo to a fresh
sprocket laying on top.
Note 11: Clutch Operation: A clutch is fairly simple
component but a major expense to repair/replace and, as you’ll see in the video
I’m providing, very difficult to diagnose.
This video provides a first-hand experience of the author’s
clutch failing. In this particular instance, the clutch completely fails fairly
quickly, catching the rider off guard because he was actually testing/filming
the result of an automatic tuning module. However, a rapid failure like the one
in the video is not always the case. The decline and ultimate failure of a
clutch can extend over a considerable period. The early minutes of this video
show the effects of a clutch on its way to failure and those conditions are
what a buyer should be looking/listening/smelling for.
How to Tell If Your Motorcycle Clutch is Going Bad
DanDanTheFireman on YouTube
Another quick test is to start the “cold” motor and
carefully listen to how hard the starter motor sounds during the start. Then
turn it off and start it again in first gear with the clutch pulled. If the
starter motor seems to work harder, it could be the beginning of a clutch
problem. Why start cold? Sometimes a clutch on its way to failure will slip
when the motorcycle engine is cold and then seem to operate fine when the
motorcycle gets to a running-temperature level.
Note 12: Bearing Noise: Bearings are another of those
internal parts that are difficult to evaluate, but can end up costing a lot of money
to replace. There are two parts to bad bearings. One is resistance in the wheel rotation
and the other is the sound. If the motorcycle has a center stand get the wheels
up and see if you can feel resistance in the wheel turn. If you can’t get the wheels off the
ground, have the seller roll the bike while you crawl along and listen. The linked video, below,
provides the sound. In this case there’s a squeak, but the true sound of the bad bearing
is the gritty, rubbing sound.
Wheel Bearing Noise
Stephen M on YouTube
Closing Caveats:
There's so much value in buying used over new, yet that value is naturally accompanied by an uncomfortable feeling that you're going to miss something very important that's going to cost a lot of money to fix...if fixable at all. In buying a used motorcycle there is an absolute risk that a material issue with the motorcycle exists and is either not being disclosed by the seller due to lack of their knowledge or dishonesty, or such material issue is being misrepresented as something of a lesser significance by the seller. I suppose that's a good thing from the standpoint that it keeps us on our toes and it's the very reason I prepared my checklist. It's on our shoulders. It's called caveat emptor.
As it relates to my checklist and other information (including that of third parties) that I'm sharing, you need to keep in mind that there are many different brands and models of motorcycles (and production years of models), each and all with their unique issues. The checklist and other information displayed in this post (and linked) was gathered and tailored to support my needs related to a specific motorcycle brand and model that I was considering buying. As a result, it does not reflect all of the steps, items or questions that might be necessary for other models nor does it even reflect all the steps, items, procedures or questions that I ultimately performed in making my decision on the KLR600. So, the point is, don't rely on it. It's just a checklist.
Within days of taking delivery of my 2019 KLX250, I did some Dremel work on the awful looking rear sub-fender. Essentially, all I did was cut about 7 inches off the sub-tail and took the side reflectors off with my angle grinder.
However, that was just temporary as the real problem was a horrific looking tail light.
Shortly I came across a post on FaceBook about a cheap tidy-tail with an integrated full-range tail light (running, brakes, signals, plate) that people were getting for their KLXs...and other bikes. It looked pretty good (photo from the FB post below).
While it was clearly a knockoff of the "aluminum" DRC Edge Tidy Tail (a $50 part) this one was a mere $8.55, with a U.S. location...no kidding. I thought, for that price I'll give it a try.
Unfortunately, as the saying goes, you get what you pay for.
While it looked the part, the material was clearly the wrong stuff for this application. It was made of a hard and brittle plastic and would never stand up to the off road usage that my KLX endures. The listing described it as ABS Plastic...whatever that is, so I knew it was plastic, but again, this was a very weak and brittle plastic. Yet it had a lot of positive reviews on eBay, so who knows...maybe I got just a bad one.
Salvage Opportunity?
Although the plastic of the tidy tail turned out to be trash, I continued to work with the tail light, which seemed to be a fairly decent component. It was pre-wired for running, brakes and signals. I honestly think the worst part about the KLX tail is that ridiculously enormous taillight.
The only mod to the sub-fender that was necessary was to grind some widening notches/slots in the sides of the stock taillight mount. That effectively maintains the integrity of the sub-tail should I need to go back to the stock tail light....which, at this point, I'd probably go find something else anyway. The stock tail light is just so awful.
From there, I took a couple rubber washers to get it properly set and secure against the sub-fender.
That opened up an opportunity to move the license plate bracket up a full three inches, which I did as shown in the next photo.
Here's a photo with the new tidy tail light, as installed, compared to the massive stock head light and the raised license plate.
Lastly, the smaller taillight and the raised license plate opened up another opportunity to cut some more of the sub-fender out below the license plate. The next two photos show the final mod.
As to the turn signal mount points, I left the factory grommets in place and put a license plate reflector/bolt in the wire hole on each side.
Overall, the lighting area of the aftermarket taillight is much smaller than stock, particularly as to the running light (shown in photo above), however it seems bright enough to be seen seen from behind. As to it's ability to withstand the bumps and grinds of the trails; well, that's yet to be seen.
In the final analysis my $8.55 investment was not a total waste in that I got a operable taillight and an opportunity to cut another couple inches off the whale tail. When it comes down to products with very low pricing relative to market, though, intuitively there's an obvious cost cut somewhere in the manufacture. Couple that with the fact that the tail section of an off-road motorcycle is catching a lot of the trail bumps, it's probably not a good place for a plastic part...say nothing of a cheap one.
The Spring Southern Discovery Rally in Hohenwald, Tennessee marks the fifth organized rally/event that I've run the 2019 KLX250...in that many months. I'd ridden all the Tennessee Dual Sport Association events up through 2017, but missed the two events in 2018. It was nice to be back although it was wet, cold and windy!
I normally camp at the Fall Hollow Campgrounds, but this year I camped in the Meriwether Lewis National Park that is located on the Natchez Trace Parkway. It was only five miles from Fall Hollow and well worth it.
Here are some photos from the three day event.
It was so rainy that I didn't get much video but here is a few minutes of footage that I have in my YouTube Channel, Peach Enduro.
I attend many dual sport/adventure rallies and other events around the southeast where camping is most always an option. Personally, I'd prefer the luxury of an air conditioned room, bed and shower, but one can rack up too much money staying at hotels; even budget hotels. When I go on ride trips, all I really want to do is ride, so everything in between is rather irrelevant, even if a little uncomfortable.
Several years ago, my son (a plumber) bartered some work for a small 8' x 5' utility trailer. It was an older 1995 model and took some effort to fix it up, but it came out pretty good. For the first couple years he used it in his mobile bicycle repair business, but quickly outgrew it for a much larger mobile repair unit. From there, we made it into a toy hauler/camper combo.
Here it is most recently set up at the Goldhead Branch State Park for the Polar Bear in January.
Below is a photo of the inside of the utility trailer from the back. Depending on weather conditions, I can either lower a canvas privacy tarp or raise the ramp. It fits a small camping table and a cot.
Electrical--Camp Supplied
Many private and state campgrounds and parks have electric hookups for campers and, as long as it doesn't cost too much more money, I usually opt for an electrical hookup for lights lights and heater/fan. To support the electric, I installed a Journeyman Plug Inlet (about $20) on the outside of the trailer that connects to outlets on the inside (shown later).
Virtually all camp sites offer 15 Amp/115V (normal three pin), 30 Amp and 50 Amp electric hookups. What I'd found is that the 15 Amp hookups often did not support an electric heater and would blow the circuits on my internal power strips. To compensate, I purchased a 30 Amp to 15 Amp RV Power Adapter ($6 at Walmart). In doing so, I had to upgrade the cords. Normal extension cords are rated for under 15A; the higher grade cords are found in commercial supplies.
The photo below is what a typical campsite electrical station looks like. The receptacles, left to right, are 50 Amp, 30 Amp and 15 Amp/115V. The purplish adapter in the above photo fits the 30A receptacle.
Once inside I have two in-line commercial-grade power strips, the forward strip is wired directly to the inlet and the rear strip is run off it's regular cord. Both have breakers.
My internal lighting comes from two fluorescent lights that each have a high-low.
Electrical--Not Supplied
There are campsites that don't have electric or it's reserved for larger RVs or otherwise limited. In those cases I either go primitive (no electric) or make my own internal AC power. It all depends.
In three days, I'm heading to a Rally in Hohenwald, Tennessee (near Nashville) and will be in a primitive camping area for four nights. That's too long to go "fully" primitive, so I'll be making my own power. This requires either my generator or my power inverter.
My camp generator is a 2000 Watt Predator Generator sold by Harbor Freight. I use this generator quite a bit and it's held up very good. I have a complete review of it on my Dormany Road for Reviews Blog. The issue with generators is that they make noise and disturb other campers, so I have to carefully consider that or some places have areas set aside for generator use; they had such an area at the Wild Bear Safari camping area back in December. The problem with those areas is people bring massive generators that are really loud and irritate me!
The Predator Generator runs lights, fans and the power strips, but it does not run my space heater even though the heater is only rated 1300 watts. On the other hand, it runs my electric blanket just fine so it is a viable option for colder weathers.
The alternative is setting up my power inverter, which I intend to do for the upcoming Tennessee Trip. Current weather reports indicate days in the high seventies and nights between 40 and 60 degrees.
I have two power inverters; the one I use for camping is a Shumacher PC-2000 Watt Converter/Inverter. Don't let the $420 price in that link scare you; it was $130 at Advance Auto Parts and many other places.
Essentially, a power inverter converts DC current to AC current. The DC current is derived from a battery...preferably a marine deep cycle battery rather than a traditional automotive battery. I have a couple deep cycle batteries that I use on my electric gate opener, so one of those will make the trip to Tennessee.
In an effort to save room and keep my small living area uncluttered I just constructed..new for my Tennesse Trip...a shelf for the inverter and my butane hotplate.
Staying Warm
Heading north (Georgia, North Carolina, Tennessee, even Alabama) anytime before Memorial Day is hit or miss weather-wise. There have been times that I've woke up to frost on my seat and rode in snow on the mountain trails.
I have different kinds of layers to keep warm when riding, but staying warm at night has been a problem in many instances. Sometimes it's literally a matter of going to bed in a hot trailer, sweating with a fan on and having the temp drop to 40s in the middle of the night.
My first line of defense against the evening cold is a 20 degree rated Bass Pro Eclipse Hercules Sleeping Bag with Hood (about $100). For some reason it's advertised as a 10 degree bag, but it's a 20 degree in the specs. Notwithstanding, sleeping bag temp ratings are ridiculously vague. To prove my point here's an Article on REI. Good luck following that/
Obviously, the best solution for a cold night is a closed ramp door and my electric heater running. That's the setup I had at the Polar Bear Rally back in January because the park we stayed at had electric for all campers. Second, if I can use my generator, my electric blanket works great. However, there's that 50% of the time I need something else.
One of my most recent items was the purchase of Heat Lamps (about $25 for 2; Amazon) that operate off of my butane hot plate. Basically, these lamps sit on the open flame and radiate heat. They are perfect for very small coverage like tents and the inside of my trailer. The first time I used them was at my Citrus WMA trip a couple weeks ago. They worked fine, but the issue is that the butane bottles only last about 2 hours on mid-flame. Since adequate ventilation is in order for the use of something like this, I lost the great heat pretty quickly once the canister expired.
Here is a photo of the lamp in use. In my trailer with the lights off, it glows orange at high heat. This photo was in the dark, but with a flash.
Another new item that I'll be using in Tennessee is a heated vest. There are a number of fairly cheap heated vests on Amazon that operate off of Portable USB Power Banks. The vest I purchased was the Cozihoma Heated Vest from Amazon (about $50). I had to purchase a power bank and picked the Rolisa 24000 mAh Power Bank (about $35); this particular power bank was attractive because it had an LED power usage display.
Reviews indicated that people were using the cheaper 10,000--13,000 mAh power banks and having good success, but the larger 24,000 mAh was only about $10 more on average; it was, however, pretty big. Anyway, the way the vest works is the power bank is connected to a USB cord in the pocket. It operates three heating panels on the back at four levels of heat.
In initial test runs, I operated the vest off the fully charged power bank at medium power. The vest consumed 12% of the battery capacity per hour indicating that it should hold out 8.3 hours at medium.
Fuel
I used to lug a Rotopax Cell on the back of my dual sport bikes during events. I have two with the mount to double them up. It seems like the fuel always got used during events...just not by me. Yeah, there's always someone who doesn't manage their fuel well. Well, when I got the KLX250 I decided that I wasn't going to add any weight, including a rear rack, so that means no fuel cell either.
Instead, I mounted the fuel cells on the wall inside my trailer and make sure they're full of ethanol free before I leave on my rides.
I usually still need to fuel up at stops during rally, but if I can do that mid-day, then I can get a slug of ethanol free in the tank for the next day.
Checklist
If there is one thing that I really need for my rally road trips, it's a checklist. My memory just gets worse and worse as each year goes by (I'm about to turn 60). Just a couple weeks ago...I camped and rode the Citrus WMA and forgot one of the most important things on my rally checklist...coffee!!! Oh man, nothing is worse than starting my day without coffee. Dang. It was just another reminder that I need to stick to my checklists even on my short little overnight trips.
Checklists, if anyone chooses to use them, are a very personal thing. Even if you find some online, such as the links provided below, they really need to be tailored to the person and to the specific circumstances.
The method that I employ is to list everything and then make a decision on what makes the trip on a line-by-line basis. For example, I have two sleeping bags, one for cold and one for warm. Obviously, I don't need to take both, but I do need my cot pad that I also forgot on my Citrus outing. Other decisions, such as electric and cooking can be facilitated by a comprehensive checklist.
Below are links to my checklists. The first is my rally checklist that includes everything from riding gear to camping gear. The second is a General Tool Checklist that includes the tools and certain other items that stay in a tool box in my truck bed at all times and includes some items for the event or rally. For example, I keep a supply of fuse sizes in the General Tools. I also keep one of each motorcycle spark and motorcycle specific tool kits in the General Tools.
