...and I never pinch the tube!
Today I replaced a very old and rotting 130/80-17 Avon Gripster (rear tire) on my 1985 Kawasaki KLR600 with a fresh 50/50 Kenda K784 Big Block Knobby of the same size. What follows is a step-by-step chronicle of how I went about spooning the new tire while avoiding a frustrating and expensive tube pinch.
My Tools for the Job:
While I always spoon my own tires, I've never invested in a tire changer, stand or any real expensive equipment. Rather, I do it on my garage floor just like if I have to do it out on a trail. Below is the equipment that I use.
When at home I have the luxury of my higher leveraged 14 1/2 Spoons and tire iron. On the trails I carry the shorter/lighter 9 1/2 inch levers. I also have a couple Motion Pro T-6 Combo Lever/Wrenches that are nice for the trail bag.
Brake Disc Protection:
As can be seen above, this particular wheel has a drum brake. When I work on a wheel with a disc brake such as on the front of the KLR600, I avoid risk of damaging or bending the disc by simply removing it.
Rim Protection:
In many cases I use one my two sets of rim protectors to avoid marring and scratching. The larger of the two sets are the MotionPro RimSheild 2, and are a big improvement over the older type with the string. Unfortunately, it's too late to save this particular rim from scratches, so I'll be skipping that step. 😊 However, these simple protectors are a must for new or colored rims.
Tube/Carcass Removal:
Naturally, I removed the tube valve to deflate the tire and pressed the bead off the rim. I am normally able to get most dual sport tires off the bead by pressing them with my hands or standing on them. In this and other cases though, I needed help breaking the bead and that's where the 6" clamp comes into play. It's just a simple C-clamp, the same thing I use to depress caliper pistons when I change the brake pads on my cars. The bead was pressed off the rim in one spot and then pressed by hand around the perimeter.
Naturally, I removed the tube valve to deflate the tire and pressed the bead off the rim. I am normally able to get most dual sport tires off the bead by pressing them with my hands or standing on them. In this and other cases though, I needed help breaking the bead and that's where the 6" clamp comes into play. It's just a simple C-clamp, the same thing I use to depress caliper pistons when I change the brake pads on my cars. The bead was pressed off the rim in one spot and then pressed by hand around the perimeter.
Once the bead is broken, the old carcass was easily removed using the spoons.
Rim Cleaning and Deburring
A step I think a lot of folks miss is cleaning and deburring the rim. This step is the first important measure to protect the tube. In addition, rim contamination can be the cause when a bead doesn't set.
This is really a great case. As you can see the KLR600 wheel really shows its age. The old tire left a lot of rubber on the rim and internal moisture had caused corrosion that needed to be cleaned out. In fact the corrosion was so bad that it caused the metal valve stem, as shown in the previous photo, to literally seize up in the rim hole!
Out came the rim strip and I removed the rubber deposits and corrosion with my wire wheel. I then cleaned the inner rim with alcohol. Alcohol is used because it is both a solvent (removes oil deposits) and quickly dries without leaving any moisture. Moisture in a rim is what gives rise to corrosion. I applied the alcohol on a soft pad so as to identify any burrs and rough spots that may cause problems for my tube.
Once cleaned up, I installed a fresh IRC Rim Strip. A rim strip is a $1.75 part and a good measure for all new tire installations imo. It looks rough, but it's now quite smooth/clean and worthy of a fresh tube.
New Tire Considerations:
Before spooning the new tire on, there are a couple things that need to be considered:
- Rotational Indicator: Many tires require installation based on a directional indicator. The sidewall of new tires must be carefully examined for a directional indicator.
- Balancing Mark: Many tires have a balancing dot; a small white or yellow circular dot on the sidewall that should be aligned with the valve stem.
These two configurations are necessary for the tire to operate and wear properly. My new Kenda K784 had both a rotational indicator and a balancing mark.
Tube Prep and Spooning New Tire:
Some tires are soft (hard to spoon) and some tires are stiff (really hard to spoon).
Whether I'm dealing with either soft or stiff, I try and soften them up a little by either leaving them in the direct sunlight for an hour or so or running a hairdryer inside the tire. It definitely helps!
Whether I'm dealing with either soft or stiff, I try and soften them up a little by either leaving them in the direct sunlight for an hour or so or running a hairdryer inside the tire. It definitely helps!
A tool that I've found very useful for installing the new tire is the Motion Pro Bead Buddy. Essentially, this simple device holds the bead in place at one point on the rim so I can start spooning without the common problem of having the bead slip off behind as I work around the rim. In this particular photo, the first bead is being spooned on.
As you'll note in the photo above, I have spread talcum powder inside the tire. In the photo below, I've also covered the tube itself in talcum powder. Talcum powder is another anti-moisture measure that creates a slippery interface between the tire, tube, rim and rim strip that allows the tube to move during the installation and spooning process...thus facilitating the placement of the tube in the tire and providing a first line of defense against pinch damage.
My next important steps in avoiding a tube pinch hole involve my method for inserting the tube in the tire in a way that reduces the chances of a pinch by keeping the tube away from the bead being spooned.
As can be seen in both the previous and following photo, the tube is not flat; rather, it has a bowl shape. Following the first bead being spooned on the rim, I insert the tube as shown below...bowl right-side up, so to speak.
As can be seen in both the previous and following photo, the tube is not flat; rather, it has a bowl shape. Following the first bead being spooned on the rim, I insert the tube as shown below...bowl right-side up, so to speak.
I accomplish this configuration by folding the tube as in the next photo below, starting with the section containing the valve stem. By folding the tube in this manner, it will open up inside the tire in an L-shape with no part of the tube close enough to the upper rim edge to get pinched by a spoon or caught on the bead.
For purposes of setting the valve stem in the rim hole, I find that laying the rim/tire flat on my floor pad with the valve stem hole away from me makes aligning the valve stem with the rim hole much easier.
Throughout the remainder of the spooning I continuously checked that the tube was staying where I needed it to stay.
Onward...
Okay now, one more look at my MotionPro Bead Buddy locking the tire bead in place at one point (near the valve stem) as I spoon the tire on using my three spoons, and then my tire iron for the last three-six inches of bead. I usually only need the tire iron for real stiff carcasses.
This is the first point (right before spooning the top bead) that I use a bead lubricant. I use glass cleaner (like Windex) because it is a non-greasy solvent that dries quickly like alcohol. In real bad situations, I'll use WD40, but nothing else...and certainly not soap or water. Glass cleaner is the right stuff for my needs for most situations.
Once spooned on, I hyper inflated the tire to about 40 psi that forced the bead onto the rim...
Once spooned on, I hyper inflated the tire to about 40 psi that forced the bead onto the rim...
...and no pinches or leaks! Viola! 😊
Next stop, install fresh brake shoes, re-gear back to OE spec and then I can reinstall the wheel and see how I like my new Kenda K784.
BONUS TIP!
Working alone in my garage I tend to think up simple approaches to help in some difficult situations. Installing wheels in the swingarm may seem like an easy task, but it's usually complicated by having to align parts on both sides and locking the brake stay into place all while holding a heavy wheel off the ground.
In a measure to keep it simple, I eliminate the "holding the wheel up" part using a small block of wood (2 x 4 in this case).
When removing the wheel I make sure it's only about an inch off the floor. When reinstalling the wheel I slide it into place on top of the block, get my alignments done and slowly roll the wheel forward off the block. When the axle hole lines up...slide it in. Done!
Viola again! 😊
Next stop, install fresh brake shoes, re-gear back to OE spec and then I can reinstall the wheel and see how I like my new Kenda K784.
BONUS TIP!
Working alone in my garage I tend to think up simple approaches to help in some difficult situations. Installing wheels in the swingarm may seem like an easy task, but it's usually complicated by having to align parts on both sides and locking the brake stay into place all while holding a heavy wheel off the ground.
In a measure to keep it simple, I eliminate the "holding the wheel up" part using a small block of wood (2 x 4 in this case).
When removing the wheel I make sure it's only about an inch off the floor. When reinstalling the wheel I slide it into place on top of the block, get my alignments done and slowly roll the wheel forward off the block. When the axle hole lines up...slide it in. Done!
Viola again! 😊
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