I first checked around for some aftermarket solutions and DIY ideas. I found no aftermarket options and, while the authors of DIY solutions touted their successes, there weren't any I really felt comfortable with.
Fortunately, OEM Parts Dealers like Rocky Mountain ATV still carry (or will order) the part. I got it from RMATV a brief two week backorder period. It was kind of pricey at $71.23 and...yes...it's green. 😐
Installation of the new guard required "partial" removal of the swingarm that, in turn, requires a lot of disassembly. Fortunately, I'm in the process of replacing the entire final drive (sprockets and chain) so removing the rear wheel, Chain Guide (PN 12053-1104) and Chain Cover (PN 3002-5179-6F) was already completed when the Swingarm Guard arrived.
As shown in the photo below:
- Remove the countershaft sprocket
- Remove the upper swingarm bolt, then shaft
- Remove or loosen the lower swingarm shaft bolt, but leave the shaft in place (the swingarm is going to pivot backwards and down on this shaft)
- Not shown in the photo, remove the side stand spring, which interferes with installation
As shown in the next photo, the swing arm will pivot on the lower shaft away from the upper shaft mounting points allowing for the Swingarm Guard to be installed.
I found that the easiest way to install the Guard was from the rear. I slid it over the top of the swingarm up into the cavity above where the countershaft sprocket was. Then it can be dropped down and pulled back onto the swingarm. There is only one 8mm bolt holding the Guard in place.
At this point, all I was left with was pivoting the swingarm up/forward until the shaft holes aligned with the upper mounts, inserting the shaft, torquing the bolt to the proper 72 foot pounds. The sidestand spring was also reinstalled.
That was pretty much it, really. It would have been a lot more work in disassembly and reassembly had I not been involved in some other maintenance in the general area...but nothing hard.
Interestingly, Kawasaki modified the Swing Arm Guard in later years to allow a replacement to be slipped on without removing the swingarm. Below is the parts diagram to my former 2016 KLR650. You can see the difference by comparing it to the parts diagram for the KLR600, above.
Onward...
I'm getting closer to having the KLR600 ready for some serious action. Here's the list of odds and ends on the bigger end of the spectrum of issues:
- Replacing the final drive train (sprockets and chains) after identifying some damage on the countershaft stay plate. Fresh drive train components are in order.
- Replacing the fork seals. Yes, after changing out the fork oil and setting it at the proper levels, the fork seals started to leak. Dang!
- I need to get serious with the brakes. They are just not working the way they should...after replacing pads, shoes, fluid and bleeding (front). I can't get a hard stop out of either end of the bike. We'll see.
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