Tire Pressure Monitor

I've had a brand new Tire Pressure Monitoring System laying around for about a year now. I originally purchased it from Amazon for around $50. I was going to have my son put it on the KLR650, but he didn't seem too interested; no problem. Pulled it out of the pile and blew off the dust to see what I might do with it.

This particular system is the CAREUD Motorcycle Tire Monitoring System. This is what comes in the box.

Essentially, this TPMS System is wireless, waterproof and provides a constant display of PSI (or bar) and wheel temp (Fahrenheit or Celsius). It provides both a visual (flashing red background) and audible alert if the tire pressure falls below a level that the user programs into the device. 

Here's a straight on look at the screen.

The system has an internal rechargeable battery in the base and comes with a USB cable for charging. The two tire sensors each have a replaceable button battery (3V CR1225). 

The kit comes with a bar mount solution as shown in the photos that fits 7/8" and fat bars. The mount has it's own dedicated turn screw and I thought it clamped down on the stock 7/8" bar of my KLX250 pretty tightly using the rubber insert provided.

Although the TPMS came with fairly decent instructions, it was kind of annoying to set up. It seemed to me that the two buttons needed for set up didn't respond well. In one case they'd be slow to respond; in other cases they'd jump over the program I was trying to log in. Also, I had a tough time trying to get one of the tire sensors tuned in until I figured out that the button battery in the front sensor was dead. Figuring dead battery was the problem, I replaced both buttons and continued to complete the set up successfully.

Oh, and just for the record, the instructions provided decently for the sensor battery replacement.

Onward...

The sensors are installed on the valve stem just like a valve cap. The disc shaped item that you see in the box contents are actually two (back-to-back) tools. One side provides a wrench for turning the sensor onto the valve stem. The other side provides a wrench for removing the back of the sensor for purposes of replacing the sensor battery. For the record, the wrench for screwing the sensor on the stem does not fit between the spokes. It's probably a carry over from their automotive line. Hand tight seemed to work find.

The kit also comes with two nuts that are tightened up against the back of the sensor along with a small opened end wrench to tighten it. The instructions call it a theft proof device. However, I think it's more of a securing feature so the sensor doesn't come loose. Seriously, no mater how tight it is, anyone could screw the sensor off the valve so I'm not seeing the anti-theft angle.

Operation...

The tires on the KLX250 are tube-type 10/90 DOT knobbies front and rear. The front is 80/100-21 and the rear is 110/100-18.

The reading of 12 PSI front and rear (as shown above) was spot on with a trusted pressure gauge. That was the pressure that I was running at the Polar Bear Rally earlier in the month. So the device's monitor works. As to the alarm function, while it's easy just to unscrew the sensor and let the alarms trigger, which they do, I went ahead and let the air out below my 8 pound setting and the alarm was triggered upon reinstalling the sensor, so that part of the device works too.

Overall, I think it's a decent tool to monitor tire pressure.

Let's face it, although we're really supposed to be checking our tire pressure before rolling off, except as I've discussed below, I don't think most people do very often. Of all the crap we buy for our motorcycles, this is a good safety feature. I wish I had it on my sport touring and adventure touring bikes. These products were around; I really just never thought to get one.

See Update at the bottom for performance on the rally track.

Is there a place for a TPMS in Dual Sporting?

So, I guess the question is whether this is something that would be a useful addition to a dual sport bike. I'm not necessarily convinced that it is.

The main reason is that dual sport and motocross riders are intensely focused on their tire pressures. Dual sport riders, in particular, face multiple surfaces that would generally call for different pressures...low pressures for soft sand and dirt, higher pressures for the pavement and hardpan. Dual sport riders either air-up and air-down as they encounter different surfaces or find a intermediate pressure that will work for all surfaces on the day's ride...with full knowledge that the tire's going to have a lower that optimal pressure on the pavement and higher than optimal pressure in the dirt. The only real important thing that the monitor is going to provide to dual sporters and motocrossers is alert to a leak, or flat....and, really, nothing wrong with that! LOL!

As to road bikes (including dual sports used for commute and road riding), I definitely think the TPMS is worth the investment. My experience is that road warriors don't pay enough attention to some of the important maintenance items, such as tire pressure. During my stint selling powersports there was more than one occasion that a biker would bring a bike in complaining about handling...a symptom corrected by our service department by adjusting the air pressure. That'll be $120 sir!

Seriously though, I'm not exactly clean on this. I have a lot of road, touring and adventure miles and would have found this TPMS very useful to check tire pressures with the quick look at the display rather than pulling out the pressure gauge.

Having said all this, I could be wrong about dual sports and TPMS. So I'm going to leave my CAREUD TPMS on my KLX250 (a strictly dual sport bike) for a couple months and see if I develop some other thoughts. Next stop, South Florida and the new ADVShit Rally in Immokalee in early February.

Stay tuned...

Update

Sorry, nope.

The TPMS is really just an extraneous piece of equipment working the different terrains on a dual sport track. When I get my next road bike, it'll have a new home.

Fulmer Dalton Highway

Well, I've been holding onto my Fulmer Dalton Highway Adventure Helmet for seven years now and it's really showing its deterioration. I bought that helmet for one reason only...a 12,500 mile adventure from Tampa to Alaska (and back through Moab) that actually included the Dalton from Fairbanks to Prudoe Bay. Fulmer's not necessarily known for having the greatest of helmets, but it did perfectly fine over the 36 days that I used it.

My current helmet (a Bilt Explorer) somehow suffered a shell fracture, so I replaced that today with a Bell MX-9 Adventure. I also had a open face also deteriorated inside the shell to the point that I couldn't us it anymore. So today...I disposed of three helmets including my Fulmer Dalton.

The real memories of the Alaska Adventure are in my 900+ photos that I took on the trip. Here's a LINK to the album.

KLX250 Drain Bolt Gasket

I usually keep a supply of OE maintenance parts on hand, including drain bolt gaskets. However, in the case of my 2019 KLX250, the OE gasket (essentially an aluminum washer) is $4.24...each! Yeah, that's a little on the pricey side, so I set out to find some alternatives.

The actual gasket dimensions are 10.5 ID x 16.0 OD x 2.0 Thick. PN # 11061-0222. In inches, that's .414" x .630" x .080". Essentially, it's an M10 aluminum washer.

Surfing around, I found a couple viable options within a reasonable range; there were others.

1. 20 piece pack of copper crush washers with the following dimensions in inches: .450 x .670 x .045. Source: Amazon. Price: $9.80 or $0.49/gasket.

2. 50 piece pack of aluminum crush washers with the following dimensions in mm: 10.0 x 18.0 x 1.8. Source: Amazon. Price $10.70 or $0.21/gasket.

A range of $0.21 to $0.49 strikes me as a much better price tag for a simple M10 washer. So this really comes down to copper vs aluminum. The OE washer is aluminum.

Which material is better...copper or aluminum...is a widely debatable topic, although not really among us 'mericans. It's a debate that largely rages between the Europeans (supporters of copper in their production models) and Japs (supporters of aluminum in their production models).

The Europeans say that both are equally malleable, but copper distort less during installation and use and is easier to remove when it's time to replace. The Japs say that aluminum is softer, which is a better metal for sealing under low torque conditions.

Speaking of low torque conditions, the torque spec on the KLX250 oil drain bolt is a very low 11 foot-pounds. Low torque specs for motorcycle drain bolts is the norm, not because of the bolt or the washer, but because of the fragile cast aluminum engine cases into which the bolt screws. There are lots of horror stories of people cracking their engine cases by over-torquing the oil drain bolt. That is one place that a torque wrench is mandatory.

Anyway, while I am absolutely positive that I'd get by with some copper drain bolt gaskets, the torque argument by the Japs is something that I can't ignore. So, I'll be going with the aluminum gaskets...all 50 of them in this package. I hope I ultimately like the KLX250 enough to keep it that long.

Update:

Before I pulled the trigger on the large gasket bundle I found another 10 Piece Kit of M10.8 by PittPosse for $5.95 or $0.60/ gasket. 

Tusk Aluminum Handguards

I typically have handguards installed on my motorcycles, but as I try to keep to a budget, I wanted to see if I could live without them on the KLX250. After two rallies, both in Ocala National Forest, I decided that the additional protection was necessary.

Handguards typically come in two parts...in addition to left and right...those would be, the metal (usually aluminum) frame and the plastic deflector. Generally, the frame is doing most of the work unless you're deflecting hard roost or deflecting cold wind on the highway. For rally work, all one really needs is the frame to repel trail brush and vine....and, for starters, I'm just installing the frame.

I chose the Tusk Aluminum Handguards for an extremely reasonable $29.99 on RMATV. It's a very simple two point mount solution. It comes with the handguard frames, the handlebar clamps and the handlebar expansion inserts for a 7/8" bar.

In advance, no matter what handguard one buys, there is going to be some level of fabrication and modding to get a good fitment. That is very personalized. In addition, aftermarket bars, if folks have them, come in an endless number of sizes and bends. One size (in a handguard set) may not fit all.

I'll go through my installation of the Tusk Hanguards on the 2019 Stock Bar, but keep in mind there are other methods and approaches to consider that may or may not be discussed here.

Grip Mod or Replacement

To save the grips or not save the grips?

The Tusk Handguards mount to the bar ends requiring either cutting or replacing the grips. There are grips that have holes in the ends for this purpose (or bar weight installation); $20, easy peasy. However, that would double the cost of my mod so I went with cutting the grip ends.

Now, listen....I've seen some pretty bad, raggedy-ass cuts out there in dual sport world. I mean, crikey, did they use a dull steak knife? The right tool for this job is something small, manageable...and sharp! Allow me to introduce you to my $3 Exacto Knife.

Clutch Side:

This is a simple cut right up, tight to the bar. No raggedy-ass edges. Note that there's a bar insert; we'll discuss that later.

Throttle Side:

The throttle/right side is different. Essentially, the throttle side grip is installed over a plastic throttle tube and the tube slides onto the handlebar as part of the throttle assembly. So at the right side bar end/tip there is a plastic tube and a rubber grip. Were the clutch side was a simple single step cut, the throttle side is a three step.

If you're going to follow my approach here, read all three steps first before you jump into this, so you know what the end configuration is.

The first step is to cut the rubber grip similarly to the left side...but cut it up to the throttle tube. Again, no raggedy ass cuts! It's way more important to have a clean cut on the throttle side because there is movement that we don't want scraggly rubber shards and pieces interfering with!

The photo below shows the cut rubber grip and the uncut throttle tube.

The second step is to cut the end of the throttle tube. The tube end thickness is 3-4mm. A good sharp cutting wheel of some is needed to do the cut. A Dremel wheel would work great. I have a Ryobi Angle Grinder that I modified to do little jobs just like this one. So, in the phot below the 3-4mm end of the throttle tube have been cut off. What you now see is the bar end and the bar end insert (also referred to above) that is a little ground down from being touched by the grinder wheel.

The third step in the Grip Modification is to establish clearance from the bar end such that the throttle tube can turn freely. When the handguard installation is complete the handguard bar is going to mount to the end of the handlebar. If it's mounting touches the throttle tube or the rubber grip, it's going to interfer with the throttle operation. So we need to give the throttle assembly a little room from the end.

Basically, this is accomplished by loosening the throttle assembly (two screws below where the mirror mounts) and sliding the whole assembly inward. That will result in unencumbered operation of the throttle. Another method is to shim the end of the handle bar with 1-2mm washer of a size that will not interfere with the throttle tube operation.

Don't tighten the screws on the throttle assembly yet. There's still a step involving throttle assembly location.

Handlebar Mod to Accept Handguard Frame

At this point, the installation should literally be just few bolts connecting the Frame to the handlebar end and the inner handlebar. Unfortunately, the OEM bars on the KLX 250 were designed with bar end implants...shown in photos above, probably reinforcements...that need to be addressed.

Normally handlebars are just tubes that allow attachment of the handguard to the handlebar end by using expansion bolts/inserts; bolts that slide into the tube and then expand against the inner tube wall as they are tightened. The Tusk Aluminum Handguards come with such expansion bolts as shown below. Those can't be used without modification to the bar.

The two (permanent) options to be able to fit the handguard frame to the handlebar end are (i) drill out the insert and use the expansion inserts and (ii) tap the handlebar end to accept a separate bolt; then install the handguard frame bar at the handlebar end with just the bolt.

I went with the later (tap) because it actually seemed like the easier thing to do. That insert goes back in there quite a ways. Further, a tap wouldn't seem to take away any of the reinforcement that the insert was providing the handlebar...and no, I don't think the expansion inserts would provide that level of reinforcement.

Fortunately, Kawasaki got me started with a hole in the handlebar insert. The photo below shows the hole. It is just a little smaller than an M6.

I tapped the hole at M7-1.00. An M7 is smaller than the two bolts included in the expansion inserts. One thing I learned  in this process is that the implant is steel. It was an effort on my part to get an M7 in there. Going to an M8 would probably require the hole to be drilled out a little more...back to drilling. I went with M7 bolts.

Just for the record, for those who may want to consider tapping out to M8, there are tables online that indicate that the drill bit size would be 17/64" or 6.9mm for 1.25 threads and 7.1mm for 1.00 threads.

Okay, with that step the OEM handlebars would accept the Tusk Aluminum Handguards.

Fitment and Alignment

Fitting the bars onto the handlebar without interfering with all the cables takes some patience. There are probably a number of ways to fit them including moving the perches. I have some things about fitment that I like and need; some I don't.

First, in my case, note that I have my handlebar sitting on a one inch riser. The risers already played a part in cable routing, so I had to use some extra caution to make sure I wasn't going to bind anything up on the bar.

Second, there are two plastic cable tie downs that insert into holes on the handlebar and that were fine when I installed the risers. I needed to pull them out to get the handguard frame aligned where I wanted it.

Third, clutch lever and brake lever operation the way I wanted them oriented were interfered with by the handguard frame. Generally, there are two options to get levers that are too long to fit. The first is move the throttle assembly perch inward (it's already loose from the handlebar end mod above) and same with the clutch assembly perch. Moving the perches effects moving the levers inward and creating more clearance for the lever ends. The second is to cut the balls off the ends of the levels. As you can see, I did the later. Actually there's a third...get shorter levers.

Again, this isn't one size fits all. Personally, I like the levers right where they are and I actually need them right where they are. The reason that I need them where they are is I need the room on the inside of the perches for mounting accessories. In particular, I mount my GPS to the right of the clutch perch and I mount my roll chart reader to the left of the brake perch.

The handguard frame clamps now take up all of the available rise in the handlebar, so I'm not going to be able to clamp something there...like a second roll chart or the wireless tire pressure reader I was going to install.

What ever ya'll do, make sure the perches are re-tightened.

Also make sure that the guards are secure.

Lastly, while the cables were checked during the install, an extensive test ride in the back yard is necessary to make sure nothing is rubbing, pulling or tugging.

Overall on the Tusks

The Tusk Aluminum Handguards are a very rudimentary design and fitment methodology. They are light, barely reading on my scale at 1.3 pounds. Sure, they'll bend when I fall, but being aluminum, I'll bend them back.

While fitting them specifically to the 2019 Kawasaki KLX250 was more than I would think most riders would want to deal with, I like the challenges that come with modification. For those that don't, better look for another solution.

I'll let you know if any issues arise out on the trail. Next stop...Devils Creek.

UPDATE:

Devils Creek was knocked out a couple weeks ago and I've been on a couple of other trails, as well. We've had a few falls and, so far, the Tusks are holding up fine. They're getting the job done, no issues. The bar seems to be doing fine, too.

The only thing is, post install, I got to thinking about the end bolt size. I used an M7. In hindsight, I've convinced myself that I probably should have drilled the hole out and put an M8 in there. At the time, my mindset was focused on the integrity of the bar itself. Those inserts were in there to strengthen it and it seemed to me more drilling and tapping equaled more weakening of the bar. Back during the install I didn't consider the "drop scenario" implications. In other words, Tusk thought an M8 was necessary to keep everything together in a fall/drop. I think that's equally important, perhaps more important. If the bar bends, it bends. Wouldn't be the first for me.

Polar Bear Adventure

I've now completed two dual sport rallies in two months of ownership of my 2019 KLX250. We completed the Wild Bear in December and the Polar Bear last weekend. No, didn't see a bear on either rally.

The Rally was headquartered in Gold Head Branch State Park in Keystone Heights (east of Gainsville).

The Park was quite large, but convenient to get around for the festivities. I rolled in Thursday to get three solid days of riding in and camped in my little toy hauler. Yes, the site I picked had electric. It was cold, but not unbearable. I have both a space heater and an electric blanket.

CADS is Classic Adventure and Dual Sport. It is an Adventure Rider Group. The event was free, except for a $15 spaghetti dinner Saturday night. Sponsors included Klim.

Above is the riders meeting being supervised by a big blow up polar bear.

Looks more like the classic abominable snowman.

Participation seemed to be in the 150 or so range. A third seemed to be in the adventure category and the rest were the traditional smaller 250-650 dual sports.

My friend Howard and his K-Toom.

Check out my blog post on the CRF250L-Rally! I actually looked at this model bike when shopping for my KLX; not long, but I looked.

The Rally provided for group led A, B, C, and D rides...plus an Adventure Track. However, my friends and I got the GPS Tracks and went out on our own. Based on what I saw, we were probably in their B level definition as a group. Three 350 Betas, a DRZ400, my friend's K-Toom and my KLX2Fiddy.

There were many tracks in the Keystone Heights Area and, then on Saturday, the tracks pushed us about 60 miles south into the norther Sectors of Ocala National Forest.

Kool bridge, but stay on the slats. Those cross ways rr ties were moldy and slippery as snot!

Last but not least is the group photo of my good friends from So Florida with the Polar Bear.

Well, okay, maybe the last is the toilet seat table at Friday's Chili Cook Off lunch.

Next stop, Devil's Creek, first week in March.

Honda CRF250L Rally

I am not a Honda Motorcycle fan; not a hater, just not a fan. Yes, I have owned them in the past, but when it comes to new motorcycle purchase decisions, I don't include Honda on the list. Why? I really don't know. They just don't have any soul.

However, Honda came out with rally bike that really caught my attention. It wasn't on my list (I don't consider Honda); rather, it was sitting on the showroom floor of my Kawasaki Dealer (they also sell Honda).

This is the 2019 Honda CRF250L Rally (Base w/out ABS $5,899). The MSRP on my 2019 KLX250 in Camo was $5,549, so it wasn't frighteningly more expensive.

When I saw it on the showroom floor, I thought, ya know...in the world of high-clearance jap two fiddy dual sports...this thing actually looks kinda kool...soul food for the dual sport enthusiast! It's main attraction was the true Dakar styling with the encased engine followed by that really odd, although interestingly koolish headlight deal in the sand screen there.

I mean, not to get too gushy, obviously it's mostly a showy version of the basic CRF250L; nothing really going on under the hood. However, major differences are that the rally has 0.6 gallons of additional fuel capacity over the base model and actually has another inch of ground clearance....while tacking on a very un-useful 30 pounds (I'm not sure exactly where that much weight comes from), and 346 lb dry weight is sort of plump for the two-fiddy class.

But then, I wasn't really comparing Honda's Rally to the Base CRF250. I was at my dealer to work through a deal on my number one choice...2019 KLX250 in Camo. I just needed to take a step back and make a quick comparison to that model.

Again, the usual case is that small jap dual sports are so very close in specs that you're almost down to a color selection. Many, many specs between the Rally and KLX are similar. However, the real big difference is that high weight. The Rally comes in with a 346 pound dry/curb weight compared to the KLX at 304 pounds...wet! Add just the gas weight of the Rally (2.6 gallons x 6.3 pounds) plus some oil and coolant and you're up to a wet Rally weight of 365 pounds!

Weight (wet):

Rally 365 pounds

KLX 304 pounds

Yikes! That's a big difference for me. Maybe not for some who glide mostly pavement, but I wanted a small bike that would be easier to throw around in the Florida Sandbox. At the end of the day, those additional 61 pounds are really just the weight cost of bling. So even though I really, really like the bling, it really wasn't too much to walk away and start working the sales guy on my 2019 KLX250.

So what got me thinking of this?

Well, I was at the Polar Bear Rally in Keystone Heights Florida this past weekend and I saw a CRF Rally there and got to talk to the owner. He loves it, of course and thought it did just fine in the sandbox...

...but, then, I didn't see him roll out in either the A or B groups.