Used Motorcycle Checklist

While my 2019 KLX250 was purchased off my dealer's showroom floor, from time to time I find myself considering an interesting used motorcycle. While there was a time that I purchased vintage (pre 1975) dirt bikes for restoration, in today's state t's not usually the case that I'm looking for used motorcycles to buy. Rather, something that really attracts me might pop up on the Interweb someplace. In fact, this just happened about a month ago when I came across a used Kawasaki KLR600 dual sport on Craigslist. Two weeks later I made an appointment to look at the motorcycle and ended up taking it home.

Prior to visiting the seller, I did a considerable amount of research on the motorcycle and what I should be doing and looking for in that very short window of time that I have to look at the motorcycle and make my decision to buy it or not. Yes, while I've purchased many used motorcycles, it's still a good idea to have an organized plan and process. Even highly experienced pilots in that aviation world do a checklist ever single time they take off, so why should I assume I'll remember everything?

Interestingly though, searches pointed me to many, very general articles and checklists on what to look for in a used motorcycle. I was somewhat underwhelmed. Underwhelmed to the point that I actually took a step back and made my own checklist for the KLR600.

The purpose of this post is to share that checklist and provide information behind some of the procedures and considerations that I thought were appropriate to support my decision to buy or not buy. Click for an Electronic Version of the Checklist.

USED MOTORCYCLE CHECKLIST

GENERAL
Carefully Review the Title for Liens and other Impairments; in the case of the KLR600, it was tagged and titled in Illinois (Note 1)
Compare the Actual VIN on the Motorcycle to the Title (Note 1)
Review the Service History with the Owner
Ask the Owner about any Significant Issues or Problems, including any Warranty Services
Ask about or obtain Owner’s and Service Manuals (Note 2)
Ask what Specific Modifications have been Made
Ask about the availability Stock Parts (left over from mods), Spare Parts and Unused Service Parts and whether they are included in the Sale


MODEL SPECIFIC
Research the model by reference to online reviews and specific model ownership Groups and Forums; great sources to ask what to look for
Obtain photos of the subject motorcycle from several angles prior to inspection and review them against manufacturer and other online photos for missing items and/or modifications
Develop Pricing Information for the Motorcycle Model from Online and other Resources
Obtain Insurance Quotes to Include in the Buy Decision
Consider obtaining a VIN Report (e.g. CycleVIN)


WALK-AROUND, VISUAL INSPECTION
Bring a Flashlight to light up hard to see areas of the motorcycle and inside the fuel tank
Inspect Panels/Fairing/Shroud/Seat Condition and Security of their Mounting on the Motorcycle
Inspect under the tank, seat, around the head pipe and around the carburetor
Look for Indications of Leaks (oil, coolant and gas)
Check oil level and oil coloration looking for dark oil, gray oil or milky oil (milky results from moisture in the crank case) (Note 3)
Look at the Bottom of the Engine for Accumulations of Oil; Note the Condition of the Case near the Drain Plug (Note 4)
Look for leaks around the fork seals and the rear shock(s)
Inspect Inner Tank Condition; look for rust and floating particulate matter (flashlight needed)
Note if the Rear Fender Centers over the Rear Tire; not Lined may be an indication of a bent frame or sub-frame


SITTING INSPECTION
Specifically Consider Handle Bar Alignment (Note 5)
Steering Head Turns Freely; Cables Unobstructed
Lever Operation (don’t turn throttle) (Note 6)
Rock Front Suspension with Front Brake Pulled
Bounce Rear Suspension
Initial Bearing Test by Roll Back and Forth while listening for Noise or Interference with Wheel Turn
Initial Brake Test (front and rear)


ELECTRICAL
Inquire as to the Age of the Battery
Obtain an Understanding of the Meter Gauges and Readings and Evaluate their Operation (also see test ride)
Test the Operation of the Headlight (hi-lo beams), Running Light, Brake Light and Signal Lights
Test the Operation of the Kill Switch
Inquire about the Wiring of Accessory Components (e.g. drive lights) and Accessory Ports (Note 7)


BRAKES
Disk Brake Pad Thickness is normally observable; Drum Brake Pads should be checked through their operation
Condition of Brake Cables and Hydraulic Hoses
Reservoir Condition, Level and Fluid Color (Note 8)
Test Brake Light (Lever and Pedal)


COOLING
Condition of Radiator, Radiator Fins, Hoses and Clamps
Observe the Fan Operation at a High Running Temp
Check the operation of the Temp Gauge
Look for Leaks during Operation


EXHAUST
Ask if the motorcycle has an aftermarket exhaust, ask what other modifications (e.g. jetting changes) accompanied the modification
Consider overall Condition of Exhaust Components and Security of Mount
General Sound Level during Operation
Smoke during Operation
If it has an aftermarket exhaust, ask if the stock exhaust is available and included


TIRES/WHEELS/HUBS
Ascertain if the Tires are Tube-type or Tubeless
General Tire Condition (Wear, Cracks, Plugs in Tubeless)
Specifically Ask about the existence of Tire Leaks
Scan Rim Condition (bends, dings and rust)
Scan Hub Condition (cracks)
Check Condition of Security of Spokes


CHAIN/SPROCKETS
Ask if the Sprockets are OE Sizes
The Chain should be Clean and Oiled
Look for Kinks in Chain (two links at an angle to one-another) (Note 9)
Check for Sprocket Wear (Shark Tailing) (Note 10)


STARTUP AND TEST RIDE
Start a Cold Engine to Identify Cold Start Issues
Listen for Smooth Idle Running
Test Brakes Before Moving
Test Throttle Turn Operation before Moving to Assure that the Throttle Returns to Idle
Test Clutch Operation (Note 11)
Shift all Gears; Consider Smoothness of Shifting
Listen for Chain and Sprocket Noises
Listen for Bearing Noise (Note 12)
Note Speedometer, Odometer and Tachometer Operation
Upon Return Check for Leaks
Check Oil Coloration, again


DEALER EVALUATION
While becoming more and more rare, a local dealer may be willing to take a look at the motorcycle and/or provide insight on some of the items that should be taken under consideration.


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NOTES:

Note 1: Out of State Titles: In the State of Florida, the VIN on an out-of-state title must be verified on a formal Affidavit by a Notary or LEO before the DMV will process the application. It is always a good idea to call the Tax Collector’s Office in advance and review the registration and titling process.

Note 2: Owner’s Manuals: Most manufacturers offer free electronic copies of owner manuals. Reviewing an owner’s manual prior to operation of the subject motorcycle may help identify operational characteristics that need to be reviewed and considered.

Note 3: Oil Color: Most people know that dark oil is an indication of old oil and gray oil is an indication of ineffective oil. Most people don’t know what gives rise to a milky oil coloration. It’s water or coolant. Water can invade the oil from condensation. Coolant can invade the oil from the cylinder head or, in some instances, the water pump. Below are personal photos of the oil coloration between normal used oil and oil from my KLR650 that became contaminated with coolant due to a water pump failure. It should be noted that oil floats on water; therefore the color indication of water/coolant in the oil is only available when they get mixed together through running of the engine.

Note 4: Drain Plugs: Motorcycles often have cast aluminum crank cases. Damage to the cases is caused when steel wet sump oil drainage plugs are over-torqued causing serious damage to the case such as that shown in the photo below. It would be advisable to have a dealer look at the case if indications of repair are observed.

Note 5: Handle Bar Alignment: The photo below illustrates an “exaggerated” out-of-alignment handlebar; the problem can be much more subtle but still very noticeable and an indication of a bigger problem requiring expensive repairs (e.g. bent fork tube). Yoke=Triple Tree.

Note 6: Throttle Operation: The operation of the throttle on some four-stroke motorcycles result in spraying fuel into the carburetor even if the motorcycle is not running, which in turn, could lead to flooding. The throttle turn test should be done only when the motorcycle is running.

Note 7: Accessories: There are many different ways to wire accessories and ports for accessories (e.g. cig type or USB port). Some accessories come with a dedicated harness (e.g. spot lighting). The main question is whether the accessories and ports are switched or unswitched. Essentially, “switched” means that they only operate when the key is on. “Unswitched” means that the accessory or port is connected directly to the battery and the accessory/port will work (and drain the battery) at all times. This is necessary information to avoid unexpectedly draining the battery.

Note 8: Brake Fluid: Spec hydraulic brake fluid replacement intervals are usually around two years, which equates to the effective life of the fluid. Hydraulic fluid starts with a clean, clear appearance and darkens over time. The older it gets, the darker it gets. If it looks like the right example in the photo below, it’s well past spec. If you see a very dark color, you’re looking at a required flush of the hydraulic system and a disassembly of the brake caliper to inspect, and potentially replace, the rubber bits. However, as to the rubber bits (seals and o-rings), those typically already have a manufacturer replacement spec of around five years.

Note 9: Kinky Chain: The photo below illustrates a kinked chain that requires replacement. No, it’s not repairable/recover with lubricants. Chains are maintenance items that have components that wear over time no matter how well they are maintained. You will hear that kinked chain as it rolls around the sprockets before you see it. 

Note 10: Sprockets: Similar to chains, sprockets are also maintenance items that wear over time. It should be noted that a bad chain will increase the wear on the sprockets reducing their lives. The photos below show examples of worn countershaft and final drive sprockets.

This first stock photo is a really bad countershaft sprocket showing heavy wear and shark-toothing. That one is way past its replacement.

This second photo is a worn drive sprocket with a comparo to a fresh sprocket laying on top. 

Note 11: Clutch Operation: A clutch is fairly simple component but a major expense to repair/replace and, as you’ll see in the video I’m providing, very difficult to diagnose.

This video provides a first-hand experience of the author’s clutch failing. In this particular instance, the clutch completely fails fairly quickly, catching the rider off guard because he was actually testing/filming the result of an automatic tuning module. However, a rapid failure like the one in the video is not always the case. The decline and ultimate failure of a clutch can extend over a considerable period. The early minutes of this video show the effects of a clutch on its way to failure and those conditions are what a buyer should be looking/listening/smelling for.

How to Tell If Your Motorcycle Clutch is Going Bad

DanDanTheFireman on YouTube

Another quick test is to start the “cold” motor and carefully listen to how hard the starter motor sounds during the start. Then turn it off and start it again in first gear with the clutch pulled. If the starter motor seems to work harder, it could be the beginning of a clutch problem. Why start cold? Sometimes a clutch on its way to failure will slip when the motorcycle engine is cold and then seem to operate fine when the motorcycle gets to a running-temperature level.

Note 12: Bearing Noise: Bearings are another of those internal parts that are difficult to evaluate, but can end up costing a lot of money to replace. There are two parts to bad bearings. One is resistance in the wheel rotation and the other is the sound. If the motorcycle has a center stand get the wheels up and see if you can feel resistance in the wheel turn. If you can’t get the wheels off the ground, have the seller roll the bike while you crawl along and listen. The linked video, below, provides the sound. In this case there’s a squeak, but the true sound of the bad bearing is the gritty, rubbing sound.

Wheel Bearing Noise

Stephen M on YouTube

Closing Caveats: 

There's so much value in buying used over new, yet that value is naturally accompanied by an uncomfortable feeling that you're going to miss something very important that's going to cost a lot of money to fix...if fixable at all. In buying a used motorcycle there is an absolute risk that a material issue with the motorcycle exists and is either not being disclosed by the seller due to lack of their knowledge or dishonesty, or such material issue is being misrepresented as something of a lesser significance by the seller. I suppose that's a good thing from the standpoint that it keeps us on our toes and it's the very reason I prepared my checklist. It's on our shoulders. It's called caveat emptor.

As it relates to my checklist and other information (including that of third parties) that I'm sharing, you need to keep in mind that there are many different brands and models of motorcycles (and production years of models), each and all with their unique issues. The checklist and other information displayed in this post (and linked) was gathered and tailored to support my needs related to a specific motorcycle brand and model that I was considering buying. As a result, it does not reflect all of the steps, items or questions that might be necessary for other models nor does it even reflect all the steps, items, procedures or questions that I ultimately performed in making my decision on the KLR600. So, the point is, don't rely on it. It's just a checklist.